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Rift
Valley Lake Region Cultural Experience
Lake
Turkana is often referred to as a living museum of human culture. It is
true to say that the sheer remoteness of this inland sea has sheltered
its people from outside influence, and that cultures here are more pure
and unadulterated than in other parts of Kenya.
The
dominant culture here is undoubtedly the people for whom the lake is named,
the Turkana. The Turkana are a fascinating culture, whose roots lie not
in Kenya, but among the Karamajong of Northern Uganda and South Sudan.
They migrated to the lake around 250 years ago, for reasons unknown. According
to Turkana mythology, the tribe were chasing a wayward bull.
To
most visitors to the Lake this looks like the most inhospitable country
on earth, with baking fields of lava surrounding crocodile infested waters.
But the Turkana are supreme survivors, known throughout Kenya for their
survival skills, physical strength and aggressive opportunism.
The
Turkana have spread throughout this region and proved to be able to thrive
under the most adverse conditions. they keep cattle and have some basic
forms of architecture, but have also long depended on hunting and gathering.
Fish, crocodiles, and other wildlife including lizards and snakes are
the traditional diet.
The
Turkana do not have as many complex customs as some of Kenya's other nomadic
cultures. The central principle of their culture is a generational clan
system, with two clans - Leopard and Stone. If a man is born a Leopard,
then his son will be a Stone, and his son a Leopard, and so on.
This clan system has a traditional base in the formation of cattle raiding
parties.
Despite
the difficult conditions in which they live, the Turkana have a highly
developed sense of the aesthetic. They produce a great deal of jewellery
and articles of physical adornment. Turkana women traditionally wear their
hair in a mohawk, while the men grow their high and pile it on top of
their heads in an individual style passed on from father to son. They
then decorate it with blue clay and feathers.
Turkana
men also traditionally took pride in skills of combat, and produced a
wide range of inventive weaponry, including spiked clubs, wrist and finger
knives. The Turkana are generally excellent craftsmen, skilled in metalwork,
leather making, beading and carving of wood, stone, bone and horn.
The Turkana share this region with small populations of Samburu, Rendille,
and Gabbra.
On the southern shores of the lake live Kenya's smallest tribe, the El
Molo.
The
El Molo are some of Kenya's last remaining true hunter gatherers. They
survive almost entirely on fishing, using nets made from a local doum
palm fibre and simple log canoes. El Molo villages consist of small rounded
huts made from dried lake weed and anchored with stones. The El Molo are
locally regarded as gifted weavers of basketry and nets.
Modern
medicine has recently caused growth in El Molo population, although intermarriage
has meant that the tribe is increasingly becoming absorbed by the Turkana,
and the Samburu, whose language they have adopted. This remarkable area
was first explored in 1888 by Teleki and Von Honel, who made the epic
crossing of the deserts and laval plains, naming the great lake "Rudolf"
after their Archduke and the patron of their expedition. The name Turkana
was adopted during the 1970's.
Turkana
has remained an enigmatic destination for adventurers and modern day explorers,
one of the planet's last great remote wilderness areas.
Most
visitors to the lake will encounter both Turkana and Samburu people, and
at the South West shore El Molo. Exploring on foot is a good way to meet
local people. Visiting a village requires a good measure of respect for
local traditions, and a knowledgeable guide is recommended
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